The Galapagos Islands, an archipelago located in the Pacific Ocean 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador, are renowned for their unique biodiversity and significant role in Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution by natural selection. Comprising thirteen main islands and numerous smaller islets and exposed rocks, the islands are home to a variety of endemic species, including the famous Galápagos Giant Tortoises and Marine Iguanas. The islands’ diverse ecosystems range from lush highlands to arid lowlands, attracting scientists, nature enthusiasts, and tourists alike. Today, the Galapagos are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, emphasizing the importance of conservation and sustainable tourism to protect their fragile environments.
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Aeropuerto
On Baltra Island.
Galápagos Islands Map
There are 13 “major” islands on the map, plus Eden Islet and North Seymour Island. Including Eden and N Seymour, the colored islands indicate the islands we visited, and the route we took. The asterisks indicate volcanoes. Fernandina Island has an active volcano which last erupted in March 2024. Isabela Island has five volcanoes that are considered active, having erupted since 1954, The most recent eruption on Isabela was in 2022.
Isabela II Expedition Ship
Licensed by the Galápagos National Park Directorate, expedition ships are designed for visitors to become explorers. It is an immersive experience, with guided excursions and ample opportunities for wildlife observation according to the strict laws governing the National Park.
Sunrise Over Santa Cruz Island
San Cristóbal Island
Our first stop of the day with a choice of a "strenuous" hike or exploring underwater life on a glass-bottom boat.
San Cristóbal Island
Sunset pjust prior to our departure.
Blowhole on Española Island
Rocks off of Floreanna Island
Sunrise
Floreanna Island
Isabela Island
Eden Islet
This rock sticky out of the water is about ½ mile wide and just less than a 100 feet tall. There is no place to land, so we explored by panga boat and snorkeling.
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Panga Boat
Ready to explore with our driver and our certified guide.
Panga Boat
Returning from a snorkeling exploration at Floreanna Island.
Santa Cruz Island Hike
Hike on San Cristóbal Island
Isabella off San Cristóbal
Gathering for Hike
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Galápagos Candelabra Cactus
ENDEMIC. The candelabra cactus is not only a striking plant but also an essential component of the Galápagos ecosystem. By providing food, shelter, and supporting various ecological functions (for example, soil stabilization), it contributes to the health and diversity of the environment.
Galápagos Lava Cactus
They thrive in harsh, rocky areas and are often one of the first plants to colonize new lava flows. As the lava cactus grows and eventually dies, it contributes organic matter to the soil, aiding in soil formation and improving soil fertility over time. This process supports the growth of other plants. The flowers of the lava cactus produce nectar, which attracts various pollinators, including insects and birds. The fleshy pads can also be consumed by herbivores, such as land iguanas and giant tortoises, providing hydration and nutrients.
Galápagos Prickly Pear Cactus
ENDEMIC. Prickly pear cactus is found in coastal and lowland areas. In addition to the Saddleback Giant Tortoises and Land Iguanas, Finches, Mockingbirds, and Doves feed on the flowers, fruit and seeds. Prickly Pear Cactus can slowly grow up to 20-30’ tall,flower at 50 years, and may live for another 150 years. Enough animal species depend on this cactus that if it were to disappear, the system would radically collapse. The Galápagos Prickly Pear Cactus is a vital component of the islands' ecosystem. Its role as a food source, habitat provider, and contributor to soil health highlights its importance in maintaining the balance of the Galápagos environment.
Hike on Floreanna Island
First Snorkeling Experience
Some had never snorkeled before, and as former dive instructors, Sandy and I assisted beginners.
Watchful Panga Drivers
Once geared up and off the beach, the drivers watched the snorkelers like hawks. If they saw an extended arm waving, it was a signal that "I'm done, come get me".
Final Panga Trip Back to the Isabela II.
That's Baltra Island in the background, where we would be the next morning to fly back to Guayaquil.
Blue-footed Boobies
The name is thought to have come from the Spanish word “bobo” which means “stupid” or “foolish”. This name may have stemmed from the birds’ clumsy and awkward appearance on land. They also seem to have a vacant stare, like the lights are on but nobody’s at home.
Blue-footed Booby
They can be found elsewhere in the world, but they seem to poliferate in the Galápagos.
Male Blue-footed Booby
So begins the courtship dance. The male's feet better be a deep blue, because that's what the females like! (1799)
Blue-footed Booby Courtship
Along with sky-pointing, head bobbing, or male foot-lifting, and twig offerings, "bill-clapping" is part of the couirtship routine.
Juvenile Blue-footed Booby
Birds change coloration on their way from chucks to adulthood. Sometimes this makes identification frustratingly difficult.
Female Red-footed Booby
Supposedly, this species outnumbers the other two Booby species, but that is not what we noticed. We saw the reds only in one area of San Cristóbal lsland, and the Blues were everywhere!
Female Red-footed Booby and Chick
The baby looks bigger than mama, but the little one is likely all "fluff". The females have more muted colors than the male Red-foots, and I did not see a single male.
Red-footed Booby Chick
Not happy whem mama leaves!
Red-footed Booby Juvenile
Of the three Booby species, only the reds nest off the ground in trees or shrubs. The blues and Nazca Boobies both nest on the groud, often in the middle of hiking paths.
Nazca Booby
We only saw this species on Española Island.
Nazca Boobies
Although awkward on land, Boobies and accomplished fliers, and all three species dive for food. They can dive from heights of 100 feet, hit the water at 60 mph, and reach depths of 60+ feet to catch their dinner.
Frigatebirds
Like the Boobies, they can be found elsewhere in the world. In the Galápagos, there are two closely-related species that I could never differentiate. There is nowhere else where one can get as close to these birds as in the Galápagos.
Frigatebird
Frigatebirds have the largest wingspan-to-body-weight ratio of any bird, allowing them to soar for days or weeks without landing. Some individuals have been tracked staying airborne for over 2 months!
Frigatebird
The deeply forked tail acts like a rudder, allowing tight turns, quick changes in direction, therefore great aerial agility. They need this skill for catching flying fish in mid-air,
snatching prey off the ocean surface without landing, and
performing complex aerial chases when harassing other birds to steal their food out of their mouths. .
Frigatebird
Frigatebirds never land in on the water, let alone dive, because once their wings get wet, they may not be able to takeoff again.
Frigatebirds
Males have a flexible, inflatable throat pouch called a "gular sac". During the breeding season, the male inflates it with air to form a large, bright red balloon-like display.
Flying females select mates based on sac size, a vibrant red color, and display behavior. (1858)
Galapagos (or Waved) Albatross
ENDEMIC (This is the first species display in the gallery that CANNOT be found elsewhere in the world.) It is the only albatross to live on the equator . Virtually all live and breed on Española Island.
Albatross Courtship
The Galápagos albatross has a distinctive appearance, characterized by its wave-like pattern on its chest and back feathers.It is smaller in size than other species, and DNA sequencing confirms that it diverged from its North Pacific relatives hundreds of thousands of years ago.
Galapagos (or Waved) Albatross
The Albatross cannot take off from a standing position or still air. They either need a running start into a wind, or they can launch off a high cliff. Like all albatrosses, they are built for soaring over open ocean, not for quick liftoffs. Once airborne, they can glide for hours or days with barely a flap, but getting airborne is the hard part.
Galápagos Flightless Cormorant
ENDEMIC. The name reflects two key drivers: an evolutionary change due to no predators and food (fish, eels, octopuses) available close to shore. There was no need to fly to either escape or find food. The Galápagos Cormorant likely lost flight ~2 million years ago, after a flying ancestor colonized the islands.
Galápagos Flightless Cormorant
With no need for the energy required for flight, they could increase in size with twice the weight of other cormorants. With no feather oil and large web feet, they could dive deeper, stay underwater longer, and eat larger fish.
Galápagos Flightless Cormorant
It is, perhaps, the rarest, if not funniest-looking, cormorant species in the world. To me, this looks like a "Rocky" moment.
Galápagos Hawk
ENDEMIC. They have become extinct on a few islands extinction due to the combination of human activity, introduced invasive species, prey loss, and small isolated populations. It is one of the world’s rarest raptors, with an estimated population of just 150 breeding pairs. The absence of natural predators on the islands has led to "island tameness", a well-documented evolutionary phenomenon.
Galápagos Penguin
ENDEMIC. They are relatively small as compared to other penguins, and the evolved smaller body size and less insulating fat helps them cope with warmer water.
Galápagos Penguin
The only penguin that lives “on” the equator. They are primarily found in the colder waters of Fernandina and Isabela Islands.
Galápagos Penguin
They are most closely related to the Humboldt penguin of Chile,
likely carried northward by the cool, nutrient-rich Humboldt Current, which flows from southern South America toward the equator.
Galápagos Penguin
I noted that the Flightless Cormorant lost their ability to fly about 2 miullion years ago. The last penguin ancestor that could fly was about 60 million years ago — the age of dinosaurs.
Galápagos Dove
ENDEMIC. Genetic studies show that the Galápagos dove has diverged sufficiently from its closest relatives, indicating a long period of independent evolution.
Galápagos Lava Heron
ENDEMIC. Island isolation has allowed the lava heron to evolve independently, free from competition and predation from mainland species. Over time, the lava heron has developed physical traits suited to its habitat, such as shorter legs and a more compact body, which aid in navigating rocky terrains and hunting in shallow waters.
Galápagos Mockingbird
ENDEMIC. Island isolation has allowed the lava heron to evolve independently, free from competition and predation from mainland species. As an example of adaptive radiation, different island populations of Galápagos mockingbirds exhibit variations in size, bill shape, and song patterns. These adaptations help them exploit different food sources and avoid competition with other species.
Great Blue Heron
There are occasional sightings of Great Blue Herons, likely vagrants or rare visitors from the mainland, but they don’t have an established breeding population on the islands. If ytou look carefully, there is dinner in the birds beak.
Brown Pelican
Although not a species endemic to the Galápagos, they have adapted to the unique environment found there.
Brown Pelican
Specific behaviors, nesting habits, and dietary choices in the Galápagos can be influenced by the unique ecological conditions of the islands.
Brown Pelican
While brown pelicans in some coastal areas may migrate seasonally, the Galápagos populations tend to remain resident, with local movements based on food availability rather than long-distance migration.
Gull
I found a species name once, lost it, and cannot find it again.
Unknown Species
I could not find it in online vbird identifiers. It's pretty, though!ggg
Galápagos Giant Tortoise
ENDEMIC, and one of the symbols and best-known animals in the Galápagos Islands. There is currently one species and a number of sub-species. The multiple sub-species are an example of adaptive rediation.
Galápagos Giant Tortoise
This particular tortoise (including the previous photo and the next one) is the "Dome-Shaped" Giant T.ortoise. It lives in the "highlands" (approx 1000-1300 feet up old volcanoes) where there is ample vegetation on the ground. They can weigh 550 lbs, start reproducing at 30 years, and can live up to 160 yrs. Over millions of years, they have evolved from a small tortoise from the mainland into massive herbivores.
Galápagos Giant Tortoise
All tortoises are in fact turtles, but not all turtles are tortoises. Tortoises:are exclusively land creatures, have a much longer lifespan, and are vegetarians
Galápagos Giant Tortoise
This is the Saddleback Giant Tortoise because of the shape of the shell behind the neck. They are mostly found in the drier lowlands of the islands where ground vegetation is limited.
Galápagos Giant Tortoise
Their raised, saddle–like shells and long limbs and neck are a benefit in reaching for food (prickly poear cactus) that is off the ground. .
Galápagos Giant Tortoise
The three photos of the Saddle-backs are not shown in their natural habitat because of the lush vegetation onn the ground. Rather, the photos were also taken in the highlands at a breeding center. In general, after reaching an age of five years, the tortoises are released to their natural habitats.
Galápagos Land Iguana
ENDEMIC. They are physicallly larger than many other iguana species. Adults can reach a length of 5 feet and can weigh up to 25-30 pounds.
Galápagos Land Iguana
They primarily feed on available vegetation, but they favor prickly pear pads and fruits. They have been seen rolling cactus pads on rocky ground to remove the spines.
Galápagos Land Iguana
Galápagos Marine Iguana
Charles Darwin famously referred to the marine iguanas of the Galápagos Islands as: “imps of darkness.”
In his journal, The Voyage of the Beagle (1839), he wrote:
“It is a hideous-looking creature, of a dirty black colour, stupid, and sluggish in its movements.”
Galápagos Marine Iguana
Despite his harsh words, Darwin was fascinated by the marine iguana’s unique adaptations of swimming, diving for food, and their diet.
Galápagos Marine Iguana
When feeding, they can dive to 3-16 feet below the ocean's surface and scrape algae off the rocks with their specialized scraping teeth.
They can stay at depth for 5-10 minutes, but some reportedly have been observed for longer times. After a dive, being cold-blooded, they need to recover lost heat by laying in the sun, and on each other.
Galápagos Marine Iguana
Isabela Island is home to the largest marine iguanas—males can exceed 5 feet. Genovesa Island (not visited) hosts some of the smallest marine iguanas, sometimes half the size of their Isabela cousins. This phenomenon is a classic example of “island gigantism and dwarfism”, part of adaptive radiation. Marine iguana size varies significantly between islands (twice or half the size) due to differences in food availability, predation, and climate.
Galápagos Marine Iguana
With nothing further to share, I want to know what they all are looking at, and why does the Blue-footed Booby want to be part of the group?
Sally Lightfoot Crab
ENDEMIC. The Sally Lightfoot crab is a colorful and agile crab species commonly found along rocky shorelines, tide pools, and cliffs in the Galápagos Islands. They are fast and excellent climbers, which allows them to navigate the rocky surfaces of the islands. This adaptation helps them escape from predators and access food sources that may be out of reach for other animals.
Sally Lightfoot Crab
This find was unusual in that it was far from the protection of a rocky shoreline. He was clearly perturbed by my presence, so I did not stay long.
Sally Lightfoot Crab
A quick parting telephoto shot and he was off.
Galápagos Sea Lion
ENDEMIC. Prickly pear cactus is found in coastal and lowland areas. In addition to the Saddleback Giant Tortoises and Land Iguanas, Finches, Mockingbirds, and Doves feed on the flowers, fruit and seeds. Prickly Pear Cactus can slowly grow up to 20-30’ tall,flower at 50 years, and may live for another 150 years. Enough animal species depend on this cactus that if it were to disappear, the system would radically collapse. The Galápagos Prickly Pear Cactus is a vital component of the islands' ecosystem. Its role as a food source, habitat provider, and contributor to soil health highlights its importance in maintaining the balance of the Galápagos environment.
Galápagos Sea Lion
Galápagos Sea Lions evolved to be generally smaller (half the size) than their California sea lion counterparts. They have a lighter, more slender body and a shorter snout compared to other sea lions. Evolving to a smaller size is an example of Island Dwarfism (a Common Evolutionary Pattern) – opposite of Island Giantism. In islands with limited resources, many species evolve to smaller sizes.In addition, smaller animals dissipate heat more effectively.
Galápagos Sea Lion
Sea lions are known for their social nature and can often be seen lounging in large groups on beaches and rocky shores. They exhibit playful behavior, both on land and in the water, and are known to interact with each other and with humans. As former divers, we have experienced this playfulness over the coast of California and in Mexico's Sea of Cortez near La Paz. In addition, we observed many of the same behaviors while snorkeling in the Galápagos Islands.
Galápagos Sea Lion
Playful. yes, but afternoon naps are a requirement . . . for many of us.
Galápagos Sea Lion
"Snout-lifting" is a posture we frequently noticed. It is thought to be a resting pose to conservie energy while staying semi-aware of surroundings. Or, it could also be a display of mael dominance.
Galápagos Sea Lion
Another behavior I frequently noticed was a sea lion walking (waddling?) up to the water, then laying down in a streamlined position like a torpedo. When a sufficiently large wave would come in, submergine the sea lion, he would take off like a torpedo.
Galápagos Sea Lion
A young one nursing on North Seymour Island.
Sting Rays
In quiet, calm bays of the Galapagos, mangroves provide a refuge and nursery for fishes, young sea turtles, sting rays, & reef sharks, and a nesting area for herons & pelicans.
We were able to see a significant amount of underwater life from the panga boats. This picture shows a group of rays, almost "flying in formation".
Eagle Ray
The eagle ray was a special find as we have seen many of them while scuba diving. They are much less common than many rays, and most of time, as in this photo, they are swimming aqay from you.
Sea Turtle
We saw a number of sea turtles swimming just under the surface, but unlike the fishes, they have to come up for air. We also saw a number of small sharks, although they tended to be quick glances. All of these animals and more we viewed while snorkeling, but unfortunately, we have no underwater pictures.
Farewell
As the sun sets, we bid you adieu! Sandy and I hope you enjoyed a photographic taste of the Galáp[agos Islands.