Santorini - bill miller photography

Santorini is one of the most dramatic islands in the Aegean, defined by its steep volcanic cliffs, whitewashed cliff-top towns, and the vast flooded crater of its ancient caldera. The island’s striking shape is the result of one of the largest volcanic eruptions in recorded human history, which caused the central volcano to collapse and form a deep, sea-filled basin surrounded by towering cliffs. Villages like Fira and Oia now cling to the rim, overlooking the caldera where boats move across what was once the heart of a volcanic mountain.

One of the island’s most important archaeological sites is Akrotiri, a Bronze Age settlement often associated with the Minoan civilization. Buried and preserved under volcanic ash around 1600 BCE, it is sometimes called the “Minoan Pompeii” because of its remarkably preserved buildings, fresco fragments, and advanced urban layout. The site reveals a sophisticated ancient city that was abruptly entombed by the same volcanic forces that reshaped the island itself.

Today, Santorini blends this deep geological and historical legacy with a landscape of whitewashed architecture, terraced vineyards, and stark volcanic beaches of black and red sand. The contrast between the calm beauty of modern life and the violent origins of the island gives it a unique character—where everyday sunsets are set against the rim of a collapsed ancient volcano.

Return to the Cyclades

We arrived at the "new" main port where a bus was waiting to take us from sea level up the switchbacks to the top of the cliffs. As an aside, the two large cruise liners should have been a warning to us. (2841) — Santorini Arrival
We arrived at the “new” main port where a bus was waiting to take us from sea level up the switchbacks to the top of the cliffs. As an aside, the two large cruise liners should have been a warning to us. (2841)

Akrotini Archaeological Site
Our guide for a visit to Akrotini, a Bronze Age town on Santorini that flourished around 1600 BCE. It was buried under thick layers of volcanic ash during a massive eruption on Santorini, preserving buildings, streets, pottery, and colorful wall paintings in a way often compared to Pompeii. Unlike Pompeii, few human remains have been found, indicating the population had time to escape. (2843)

Under Roof
The excavated town is unusually fragile because many walls are made from materials such as mudbrick and volcanic stone rather than massive marble blocks. When the city was buried in ash, it was preserved for thousands of years in a relatively sealed environment. Once exposed to open weather, deterioration would accelerate . . . therefore, the roof. (2846)

A Work in Progess
The roof does not necessarily cover the entire ancient city, because only part of the buried settlement has been excavated so far. The actual Bronze Age city likely extends beyond the area visible today. (2848)

Advanced Civilization
Akrotiri reveals that the inhabitants had an advanced society with multi-story buildings, drainage systems, indoor plumbing, and extensive trade connections across the Aegean. (2851)

No Current Funding
Our guide is an archeologist who has worked at this site, but there is no current activity at Akrotini due to lack of funding. (2853)

Akrotini provides a remarkable glimpse into life in the prehistoric Aegean. It is linked to Europe's earliest advanced civilization, known for its impressive palaces, maritime trade networks, vibrant art, and an undeciphered writing system. (2858) — Santorini’s most important archaeological attraction
Akrotini provides a remarkable glimpse into life in the prehistoric Aegean. It is linked to Europe’s earliest advanced civilization, known for its impressive palaces, maritime trade networks, vibrant art, and an undeciphered writing system. (2858)

Megalochori
Megalochori is a traditional village in southern Santorini known for its quieter, more authentic atmosphere compared with the busy tourist towns of Oia and Fira. (2862)

Megalochori has many similar-looking churches and chapels all in close proximity, but we were there to visit the "cave homes". (2863) — Clock Tower
Megalochori has many similar-looking churches and chapels all in close proximity, but we were there to visit the “cave homes”. (2863)

The sign, with the words, "GIA SAS", is a respectful “hello” to strangers or guests. (3833) — Cave Home
The sign, with the words, “GIA SAS”, is a respectful “hello” to strangers or guests. (3833)

Only One Way In and One Way Out
Cave-style homes are part of the broader Cycladic tradition of “yposkafa”— houses partially or fully carved into volcanic rock. (3832)

These homes developed out of very practical needs, not aesthetics. As this photo illustrates, cave home were sometimes "extended" over time with more traditional construction. (2864) — Practicality
These homes developed out of very practical needs, not aesthetics. As this photo illustrates, cave home were sometimes “extended” over time with more traditional construction. (2864)

Low-cost Housing
Many villagers—especially farmers, laborers, and sailors’ families—could not afford stone-cut “captain’s houses.” Carving into soft volcanic ground was much cheaper than quarrying and transporting stone, faster and required fewer materials, and adapted to limited resources on the island. (3834)

Average Home
An average home may have had 3-5 rooms comprising 600-1300 sq ft. Daytime rooms were towards the entrance or one small window for lighting. Other lighting was supplied by multiple oil lamps placed in carved niches. (2866)

Town of Oia (EE-ah)
Oia is a cliffside village which may be the most famous town in Santorini. It is known for spectacular sunsets and the cluster of blue domes. For me, it is known as the crowded place from where thousands of tourists from huge cruise liners are dumped. I am certain it would be much more pleasant to spend a week in Oia, perhaps off-season, or at least with the ability to get out and about on your timing. (2875)

Characteristic View of Oia and the Caldera
Whitewashed homes spill down the volcanic cliffs toward the deep blue caldera, while cruise ships drift between Santorini and the volcanic islands that mark the center of the ancient eruption. (2879)

Fira is the island's capital with shops, bars, banks, and restaurants (including a McDonald's . . . ugh). Still, hundreds or more large cruise liner passengers roamed the narrow streets. (2882) — Fira, High Up on the Cliffs
Fira is the island’s capital with shops, bars, banks, and restaurants (including a McDonald’s . . . ugh). Still, hundreds or more large cruise liner passengers roamed the narrow streets. (2882)

The Cable Cars
We needed to descend the cliffs at the old port to catch our tender back to the ship. Alternatives were a donkey ride, walking down a path the doneys use, or ride the cable cars. We went with the cable cars. (2887)

The Cyclades